I finally did it. I finally left Istanbul and discovered the most beautiful country I've ever seen. Remembering the rainforest-like mountains of the Dominican Republic, I was skeptical that any country could be as beautiful. After seeing the various climates of Turkey, I'm completely sold on its remarkability.
I got off work on Thursday at 3:00 PM and after boarding the wrong bus home, find myself in route to the dorm. I rushed in to pack, nap, shower, shave, etc., just before catching the first hour of the sheer dissapointment that was Ghana vs. USA. With my head up high and my emotions running wild, a solid group of trainees along with Çet, one of the pimp daddies from @ Istanbul, headed via bus and metro to board our 8:00 PM bus headed for the stunning metropolis of, Gaziantep.
16 hours. 16 hours is 2 full work days, 57, 600 seconds. And it wasn't bad at all. Sitting next to Sai, a rather petite trainee from America Junior/Thailand, I was able to pass out for about 8 hours with a few wake ups in between. Finally, after one terrible movie about US navy seals, and a slew of Turkish music videos, we arrived in the one million person strong South Eastern city of Gaziantep. We were also accompanied by a scorching 36 - 38 degree heat. I honestly expected to find small houses and lots of small farms in the city. Much to my surprise, in Gaziantep there are rather large apartment buildings, and a beautiful university campus. The first person I met upon arrival was my long time AIESEC buddy, Art from Yale. Art and I first me at my introductory AIESEC conference in October 2003. We talked more in depth at another conference in NYC in February 2004, and it was there that I became very impressed with Art and his passion for AIESEC. During a priority-setting exercise, a group of us laid out our priorities in life, and Art was the only person to put AIESEC at the top. Now believe me, seeing Art in the scorching heat of South Eastern Turkey was about as AIESECish as meeting someone new from China and realizing you have 20 friends in common.
Our first destination was a mosaic museum in Gaziantep. This place is the second largest mosaic museum in the world, but still after hearing such great statistics, my anti-museum mood was kicking in. I think I've always known it, but for some reason I've fully realized that I'm not a museum person at all. The only place I've really felt enjoyable and pleasant in was the military museum across the street. Nevertheless, this museum was pretty damn interesting, considering it held the real mosaics recently dug up from the temples of Greek gods. The amount of beauty in that museum was comparable to the awe and wonder of Aya Sofia or the Sultanahmet.
Andrew enjoyed the amount of time we spent at the museum: 30 minutes. In reality it was a little long, but I was fine with it. Following the museum, we hiked up a hill to a castle in Gaziantep, ontop of which is the most beautiful view of the city. As I said before, this was truly the location where I realized this was no city of farm animals and windmills. All 24 of us gathered on the edge of the castle to take pictures. I handed my camera to Tarik, who was probably holding more than 10 cameras on both hands. We snapped some pictures, and not to my surprise during my camera's use I was busy spitting a fly out of my mouth. Pretty. As I went to Tarik to grab my camera, in slow motion I could see his hand stretched out, he balancing himself on a stone. I reached for the camera and grabbed it with 2 fingers but slipped. As I reached for it again, the only thing I could think of was the movie Ace Ventura. As Ace was holding on for dear life to that racoons strap, Tarik was letting loose of my camera's wrist holder. All motion stopped (minus the camera's) as my camera fell from Tarik's hand onto a dusty, thousand year old stone. I looked down to see my Canon camera with its lens at a 45 degree angle. And at that point, I knew Turkey would never be the same.
Despite the trauma, I once again held my head up high, and gave my memory card to Igor who had the same camera. He took a slew of pictures over the rest of the trip, so the memories of the trip won't be forgotten. Regardless, I no longer have a camera to document this remarkable experience.
24 of us on a small bus, we were roughing it down the long back roads of South Eastern Turkey on our way to Rumkale. We had received an agenda of SAT 2006 but I didn't bother to research what we would see. I pretty much expected to see a bunch of castles and museums. After a good 2 hours, we arrived in Rumkale, arguably the most beautiful geographical wonder I've seen so far. Rumkale was a castle/fortress built by someone sometime ago. After that somebody invaded at sometime and defeated someone else, bringing in some prosperous era of something. The important part for me was the sheer beauty and awe of its architecture. Its built on a tall cliff on a bend in the Euphrates. We had to park the bus and take a local boat across the Euphrates to climb some extremely old stairs up to the first level of the castle. On the first level is a gigantic well resembling some action scene from Sinbad or Indiana Jones. On other levels of the castle are rooms built into the sides of the cliff where markets used to exist hundreds of years ago. Combined with the wind, the view, and the historical enigma that this place reflected, Rumkale was an incredible experience. After a lengthy stroll around the castle, we managed to take a dip in the Euphrates, swimming well past sundown. I truly regret not having the balls to climb back up the stairs and jumping off the edge of the castle. Damn I miss cliffdiving.
We left Rumkale at 9:00 PM and in typical fashion of this trip, we had a "2" hour drive to our next destination. In celebration of a great time at Rumkale, and to being so damn close to Syria, Iraq, and Iran, we bought a six pack at a rest stop. Damn it felt good to drink some beer. Around 1130 we arrived at our rest quarters for the night. This "dorm" for Sanliurfa university, as Art and I reflected before our 30 minute nap, reminded us of Midnight Express. Yes it's a ridiculous movie but walking into a dormitory floor with 100 men half-dressed looking extremely perturbed at our presence was enough to make me think of prison. Everything was okay though, because just after an hour and a half we boarded the bus again in route to Mt. Nemrut (
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/448).
We rode our mini bus about 30 minutes to a gas station. By now it was about 230 in the morning, and much to our surprise, we were all fairly awake. We had also started drinking in-kind beer just a few minutes before. We split into two groups and got into these high powered minivans that would take us 3000 meters up this mountain. As we skidded out of the gas station, I knew this next 3 - 4 hours of driving to and from would be one hell of a ride. Our Turkish driver was fuckin' crazy. As we started driving up the mountain, we were skidding along its sides, overlooking a dark abyss. Fortunately for us, we were extremely tired, so we didn't really care about anything, and it was pitch black so we had no idea what was below us. Riding in the back, I could see about 10 - 12 heads bobbing left and right, almost all of them completely knocked out for the ride. After, once again, "2" hours, we arrived at small stop of sorts, from where we had to climb the rest of the way.
Picture this: there are 24 Turks and trainees, walking up a 45 degree angle, with just a hint of sunlight approaching the horizon. From below we could see a large mound of sorts, with small images of people making the final steps of the climb. It's 4:30 in the morning. I hadn't seen a bed since Wednesday night, I had had to use the bathroom ever since we left the prison, and I was staring up 500 meters to a hill that I would inevitably have to climb. I raised my beer bottle to my lips and gulped the rest down. Turning to a Turkish man offering a ride on a donkey, I said "Yok, sag ol", and started up the mountain. Not going to lie, I was tipsy. Yes, I was borderline drunk on top of a humongous moutain in the middle of nowhere. I love AIESEC.
We reached the top of the mountain and looked out onto rolling hills and mountains for as far as an eye could see. Joining us on top of this mountain were tourists from all over the world, along with old statues of gods that had been on the mountain's peak for millenia. The sunrise from this view was unbelievable, and for a good half an hour, all fatigue, beer, and exhaustion burned away. At 7 we got back on our minivans and screamed down the mountain faster than I thought possible. I for sure could not sleep as we clocked 50 kilometers coming around the slim mountain roads. Occasionally we had to dodge a Turkish road block, aka a herd of sheep. Safely and soundly, we made it back to our bus, and embarked for Sanliurfa, our home for one full day.
Our next two principal destinations were Harran and Mardin. Harran is 18 kilometers from the Syrian border, and it is home to one of the oldest Islamic universities in the world. Mardin is a beautiful city on the city of a mountain, which is some way is extremely important in history. I still have to do my research. The cool part about this stint was visiting a Syriac Orthodox Church in the middle of nowhere. We met some German students there who were studying Aramaic. From the front of this church you have the most amazing view of Mesopotamia, and of the border with Syria. If I had only had my camera...